Clocking up millions of Google searches every year, it’s clear we love brushing up on tried-and-tested skincare ingredients. But with so many to choose from, how do we pick the ones that actually work?
 
Here are five high-performing ingredients that work across skin types — for healthier, stronger skin at any age. 
 

1. Astragalus: Supports skin strength, hydration and tone

Packed with over 200 compounds, including moisturizing polysaccharides and antioxidant flavonoids, astragalus is a multi-tasking wonder that’s still not widely used in Western skincare. “The root of the plant, Huang Qi, has been used for thousands of years in Traditional Oriental Medicine to nourish and strengthen. It’s known for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,” explains botanical authority Dr Jenelle Kim DACM. “Combined synergistically with ingredients like ginseng and angelica, astragalus increases collagen production, deeply nourishes and hydrates, improves skin tone, and brightens the complexion.” 

And, it has an additional benefit that will interest anyone who loves plump, bouncy skin. Unlike topical hyaluronic acid, which sits on the skin’s surface, astragalus has been shown in studies to help increase the skin’s own supply of hyaluronic acid at a deeper level.

How to use it: Use morning and evenings in serums and moisturizers.

2. Licorice: A multitasker for calm, bright, balanced skin

Another all-rounder, licorice root is one of the most researched botanical ingredients in skincare. Naturally rich in anti-inflammatory compounds and antioxidants, it helps reduce redness, soothe irritation, balance excess oil and protect skin from environmental stressors.

A standout benefit? Licorice root contains glabridin, known for its ability to help visibly reduce dark spots and uneven skin tone by gently inhibiting melanin production — making it an effective, plant-based brightening agent. It also helps calm stressed skin and support a healthy barrier, which is especially beneficial for sensitive, acne-prone or hormonally reactive complexions.

How to use it: Gentle enough for daily use, licorice is ideal in serums, moisturizers or toners where it can help brighten and calm over time.

3. Vitamin C: Brightens skin and boosts collagen

Nothing beats bright, healthy skin. Enter vitamin C. It's a gold standard antioxidant that helps even tone, support collagen production and protect skin from environmental damage. Everyone, young and old, can benefit from using it as part of their morning routine. A word of warning – vitamin C is notoriously unstable. Look for packaging that protects from light and air, and keep it in a cool, dark place. If the product has gone dark or a brownish color it’s oxidized, and should be discarded.
 
How to use it: Best used as part of your morning routine to reap its potent antioxidant benefits and help protect against UV and environmental aggressors. If you’re new to vitamin C start with a low concentration of around 10% and use three times a week. Work up to daily use and higher concentrations of 15-20% as your skin gets used to it. Safe to use during pregnancy.

4. Bakuchiol: A gentle plant-based retinol alternative

The vitamin A derivative retinol has long been the go-to for those who want more youthful-looking skin. But it comes with a long list of draw backs, including redness, irritation, dryness, peeling, photo-sensitivity and, for women of color, a potential increase in post-inflammatory pigmentation. And because of links to reproductive toxicity, it’s not safe to use during pregnancy. Plant-based alternative bakuchiol, extracted from the babchi plant native to India, delivers retinol-equivalent results with none of the irritation, according to a 2018 study in the British Journal of Dermatology. Although chemically distinct from retinol it encourages cells to behave in the same way – speeding up collagen and elastin production to smooth lines and wrinkles, as it fades discoloration, and evens skin tone.

How to use it: Bakuchiol is gentle, soothing, and safe for all skin types to use in mornings and evenings. Apply in a serum before moisturizer.

5. Hyaluronic Acid: A hydrator for smooth, plump skin

Skin dull, dry or dehydrated? Hyaluronic acid is one of the simplest, most effective ways to restore comfort and hydration. Naturally found in the skin, this water-binding molecule acts like a sponge — drawing and holding moisture to keep skin soft, supple, and resilient.

It’s ideal for all skin types, including oily or sensitive skin, and plays well with most other ingredients. While it can't replace a compromised barrier, it makes a fast and visible difference to surface smoothness and hydration. Just remember: it needs water to work. Applying it to dry skin can have the opposite effect, pulling moisture out instead of drawing it in.
 
How to use it: Apply a few drops to damp skin after cleansing, then lock it in with a moisturizer to seal in hydration. You can use it morning and evening, and layer it under serums or oils.